which houses the Hermitage, is just east of Nevskiy Prospect, squeezed gently
between the river and Palace Square, where the Bolshevik Revolution came to
fruition over ninety years ago. The canals spiral outward from the river and most
canal-side streets intersect Nevskiy Prospect. Over the river is Peter and Paul
Fortress as well as several other museums. Make Palace Square your point of
reference and explore from there. Note - clubs, bars, restaurants and even sites
are opening and closing constantly. In addition, due to high inflation prices
increase without notice. Be advised - use the following information as a general
guide only and verify prices online closer to your departure.
THE GAY
Perhaps the topic area where Russia is most different from its European
counterparts is gay rights. While homosexuality was removed from the official
list of mental illnesses in 1999, there is currently no legal recognition of gay
marriage and public support stood at just 14% for such legislation as of 2005. In
an odd split of opinion, 43% of Russians support re-criminalizing homosexual acts
while 43% of Russians support a legal ban on discrimination based on sexual
orientation. Hate crimes are less common but still do occur, though they are
rare in larger cities. In short, this is a tough place to be gay, though Russian gays
are pretty darn tough, too. A sizeable gay scene does exist in both Moscow and
St. Petersburg, though what happens inside stays inside. No cameras or
recording equipment are allowed for fear of blackmailing clients. This is pretty
full-on.
THE GAY(BORHOOD)
There isn’t really a gayborhood per se. No doubt Central Station has become
the hub as it is St. Petersburg’s
largest and most popular gay
venue. While the gay scene is
growing, it is still intimate enough
that everyone sort-of knows each
between the river and Palace Square, where the Bolshevik Revolution came to
fruition over ninety years ago. The canals spiral outward from the river and most
canal-side streets intersect Nevskiy Prospect. Over the river is Peter and Paul
Fortress as well as several other museums. Make Palace Square your point of
reference and explore from there. Note - clubs, bars, restaurants and even sites
are opening and closing constantly. In addition, due to high inflation prices
increase without notice. Be advised - use the following information as a general
guide only and verify prices online closer to your departure.
THE GAY
Perhaps the topic area where Russia is most different from its European
counterparts is gay rights. While homosexuality was removed from the official
list of mental illnesses in 1999, there is currently no legal recognition of gay
marriage and public support stood at just 14% for such legislation as of 2005. In
an odd split of opinion, 43% of Russians support re-criminalizing homosexual acts
while 43% of Russians support a legal ban on discrimination based on sexual
orientation. Hate crimes are less common but still do occur, though they are
rare in larger cities. In short, this is a tough place to be gay, though Russian gays
are pretty darn tough, too. A sizeable gay scene does exist in both Moscow and
St. Petersburg, though what happens inside stays inside. No cameras or
recording equipment are allowed for fear of blackmailing clients. This is pretty
full-on.
THE GAY(BORHOOD)
There isn’t really a gayborhood per se. No doubt Central Station has become
the hub as it is St. Petersburg’s
largest and most popular gay
venue. While the gay scene is
growing, it is still intimate enough
that everyone sort-of knows each
www.ambiente.us MARCH | MARZO 2010
GAY TRAVEL | ST. PETERSBURG - PERFECT
By: Kyle Taylor
THE CITY
St. Petersburg was built as Russia’s “window to the west” and it remains perhaps
the most “European” part of this enormous nation. Tree-lined avenues, charming
bridges, elegant architecture and a network of canals that rivals both
Amsterdam and Venice make this the perfect walking city. Even under Soviet
oppression St. Petersburg managed to keep a lightness and an air about it that
other parts of the country simply could not manage. St. Petersburg is to Moscow
what San Francisco is to New York. Culture and nightlife are explosive yet there’
s a sense that people aren’t in nearly as big a hurry. As such, this remains Russia’s
most gay-friendly city, with venues situated right on the street and not hidden
down a back alley. While still not as accepting as the rest of Europe, in St.
Petersburg it appears okay to be gay. Cruise down the river Neva to Peterhof -
Russia’s Versailles. Wander room after room of the Hermitage - the world’s
largest art collection. Sip champagne in a waterside cafe. Whatever you do,
don’t rush. This is St. Petersburg - where life will never pass you by.
THE LAY OF THE LAND
St. Petersburg is situated along the River
Neva. Nevskiy Prospect - the city’s main
avenue - extends from the river to the train
station and is lined with shops, churches,
monuments and people. The Winter Palace,
GAY TRAVEL | ST. PETERSBURG - PERFECT
By: Kyle Taylor
THE CITY
St. Petersburg was built as Russia’s “window to the west” and it remains perhaps
the most “European” part of this enormous nation. Tree-lined avenues, charming
bridges, elegant architecture and a network of canals that rivals both
Amsterdam and Venice make this the perfect walking city. Even under Soviet
oppression St. Petersburg managed to keep a lightness and an air about it that
other parts of the country simply could not manage. St. Petersburg is to Moscow
what San Francisco is to New York. Culture and nightlife are explosive yet there’
s a sense that people aren’t in nearly as big a hurry. As such, this remains Russia’s
most gay-friendly city, with venues situated right on the street and not hidden
down a back alley. While still not as accepting as the rest of Europe, in St.
Petersburg it appears okay to be gay. Cruise down the river Neva to Peterhof -
Russia’s Versailles. Wander room after room of the Hermitage - the world’s
largest art collection. Sip champagne in a waterside cafe. Whatever you do,
don’t rush. This is St. Petersburg - where life will never pass you by.
THE LAY OF THE LAND
St. Petersburg is situated along the River
Neva. Nevskiy Prospect - the city’s main
avenue - extends from the river to the train
station and is lined with shops, churches,
monuments and people. The Winter Palace,
| . |
| . |
other. Make friends with a local and take their advice on what’s happening.
THE MUST-SEES AND MUST-DOS
1. The Hermitage (36 Nab Dvortsovaya, Metro Nevskiy) The world’s largest art
collection at three million pieces. Clearly not all of them are on display at once.
Beyond the art (which is exceptional) the architecture inside is absolutely mind-
blowing. There is a room made entirely of gold. Admission is free for all students and
about $8 for adults. Plan to spend an entire day here.
2. St. Isaac’s Cathedral (Metro Nevskiy or Sennaya Ploschad) Capped by a
dome made of 550 pounds of solid gold, St. Isaac’s Cathedral is monumental to say
the least. Make sure to climb the 270 steps for spectacular views over the city.
Entry $6
3. Church of Our Saviour On Spilled Blood (Metro Nevskiy) Very similar to St. Basil’
s in Moscow, this gem is home to the world’s largest tile mosaic. Its canal-side
location is also rather charming. Entry $5.
4. Peter & Paul Fortress (Metro Gorkovskaya) Where the city all began, the
fortress is now the final resting place of Russia’s last Tsar and his family. One ticket
allows admission to all sites inside. Don’t miss the Chapel of St. Catherine The
Martyr, the Peter and Paul Cathedral and Trubetskoy Bastion (prison) where both
Trotsky and Dostoevsky were held at one time. Entry $6
5. The Museum of Political History of Russia (Kuybysheva 2, Metro Gorkovskaya)
Another exceptionally curated collection of artifacts tracing Russia’s darkest days,
the museum visit includes a 120-page guide in English that gives descriptions of
every item in the museum. Don’t miss Gorbachev’s letter of resignation, among
other incredible relics. Entry $3
6. Dostoevsky House (5/2 Kuznechnyy, Metro Vladimirskaya) Where the man
himself lived and wrote The Brother’s Karamozov. For anyone who has ever
survived a Russian literature class, a visit here somehow makes it feel all worthwhile.
Entry $3
7. Along Nevskiy (Metro Nevskiy) St. Petersburg’s major thoroughfare, the
avenue is dotted with churches, monuments and history. Don’t miss the Admiralty
and the Bronze Horseman of Peter the Great at end near the river, the Kazansky
THE MUST-SEES AND MUST-DOS
1. The Hermitage (36 Nab Dvortsovaya, Metro Nevskiy) The world’s largest art
collection at three million pieces. Clearly not all of them are on display at once.
Beyond the art (which is exceptional) the architecture inside is absolutely mind-
blowing. There is a room made entirely of gold. Admission is free for all students and
about $8 for adults. Plan to spend an entire day here.
2. St. Isaac’s Cathedral (Metro Nevskiy or Sennaya Ploschad) Capped by a
dome made of 550 pounds of solid gold, St. Isaac’s Cathedral is monumental to say
the least. Make sure to climb the 270 steps for spectacular views over the city.
Entry $6
3. Church of Our Saviour On Spilled Blood (Metro Nevskiy) Very similar to St. Basil’
s in Moscow, this gem is home to the world’s largest tile mosaic. Its canal-side
location is also rather charming. Entry $5.
4. Peter & Paul Fortress (Metro Gorkovskaya) Where the city all began, the
fortress is now the final resting place of Russia’s last Tsar and his family. One ticket
allows admission to all sites inside. Don’t miss the Chapel of St. Catherine The
Martyr, the Peter and Paul Cathedral and Trubetskoy Bastion (prison) where both
Trotsky and Dostoevsky were held at one time. Entry $6
5. The Museum of Political History of Russia (Kuybysheva 2, Metro Gorkovskaya)
Another exceptionally curated collection of artifacts tracing Russia’s darkest days,
the museum visit includes a 120-page guide in English that gives descriptions of
every item in the museum. Don’t miss Gorbachev’s letter of resignation, among
other incredible relics. Entry $3
6. Dostoevsky House (5/2 Kuznechnyy, Metro Vladimirskaya) Where the man
himself lived and wrote The Brother’s Karamozov. For anyone who has ever
survived a Russian literature class, a visit here somehow makes it feel all worthwhile.
Entry $3
7. Along Nevskiy (Metro Nevskiy) St. Petersburg’s major thoroughfare, the
avenue is dotted with churches, monuments and history. Don’t miss the Admiralty
and the Bronze Horseman of Peter the Great at end near the river, the Kazansky
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Cathedral and the statue of Catherine the Great.
8. The Ballet (Book tickets at Nevsky Souvenir, 3 Nevsky Prospect (on the
corner where Nevsky Prospect ends at Admiralty), +7 (812) 312-68-02, www.
nevskysouvenir.com) St. Petersburg is home to the world’s greatest ballet and
you should absolutely indulge in a performance. The Mariinskiy Theater (1
Teatralnaya) is the nation’s most famous. As such, prices are a bit steep,
ranging from $75 to over $200. Alternatively, the Palace Theater (13
Italyanska, Metro Gostiny Dvor) offers a regular season of Swan Lake and The
Nutcracker. While this is supposedly “the tourist show,” watching the St.
Petersburg Ballet Company and listening to the St. Petersburg Philharmonic
Orchestra felt pretty perfect. Tickets range from $30 to about $100.
THE EATS
Like all of Russia, dining out is expensive, even at fast food kiosks on the
street. Fortunately, the concept restaurant is alive and well in St. Petersburg,
which means you’re not only getting food but an entire “experience.” Cafe
culture is huge here, as is American-style country cookin’.
• Russian
• Teremok (60 Nevsky pr, Metro Nevsky) A “fast food” chain in St.
Petersburg that’s not all that fast in a good way. Made to order blinis filled
with pretty much anything you like, delicious soups and delectable deserts
make this a great option. Meal for one around $8.
• Yolki-Palki (88 Nevsky pr, Metro Mayakovskaya) Quite possibly “too
Russian,” this “authentic eating experience” comes complete with stuffed
roosters, staff in “authentic costumes” and buffet-style Russian grub. Not bad
at all. Meal for one around $12.
• Pyshki (25 Bolshaya Konyushennaya, Metro Nevsky) Stop in with the
Russians for a quick hot, fresh donut...or maybe a dozen? At 25 cents each
there is nothing more affordable. The 50-cent cup of coffee was also top-
notch.
8. The Ballet (Book tickets at Nevsky Souvenir, 3 Nevsky Prospect (on the
corner where Nevsky Prospect ends at Admiralty), +7 (812) 312-68-02, www.
nevskysouvenir.com) St. Petersburg is home to the world’s greatest ballet and
you should absolutely indulge in a performance. The Mariinskiy Theater (1
Teatralnaya) is the nation’s most famous. As such, prices are a bit steep,
ranging from $75 to over $200. Alternatively, the Palace Theater (13
Italyanska, Metro Gostiny Dvor) offers a regular season of Swan Lake and The
Nutcracker. While this is supposedly “the tourist show,” watching the St.
Petersburg Ballet Company and listening to the St. Petersburg Philharmonic
Orchestra felt pretty perfect. Tickets range from $30 to about $100.
THE EATS
Like all of Russia, dining out is expensive, even at fast food kiosks on the
street. Fortunately, the concept restaurant is alive and well in St. Petersburg,
which means you’re not only getting food but an entire “experience.” Cafe
culture is huge here, as is American-style country cookin’.
• Russian
• Teremok (60 Nevsky pr, Metro Nevsky) A “fast food” chain in St.
Petersburg that’s not all that fast in a good way. Made to order blinis filled
with pretty much anything you like, delicious soups and delectable deserts
make this a great option. Meal for one around $8.
• Yolki-Palki (88 Nevsky pr, Metro Mayakovskaya) Quite possibly “too
Russian,” this “authentic eating experience” comes complete with stuffed
roosters, staff in “authentic costumes” and buffet-style Russian grub. Not bad
at all. Meal for one around $12.
• Pyshki (25 Bolshaya Konyushennaya, Metro Nevsky) Stop in with the
Russians for a quick hot, fresh donut...or maybe a dozen? At 25 cents each
there is nothing more affordable. The 50-cent cup of coffee was also top-
notch.
| . |
smaller Cabaret still pulls in big crowds on the weekends. The space itself is worth
the visit. Cover prices vary from $5 on up to $15.
• Central Station (1/28 ulitsa Lomonosova, Metro Nevskiy Prospect) The place
to be in St. Petersburg - especially on Friday and Saturday night. Multiple dance
floors, go-go boys, 3am drag shows and the most bizarre bathroom ever seen in a
nightclub make Central Station a must on any visit to St. Petersburg. Free entry for
students all night long. Cover ranges but is usually $10.
• Still Okay
• Liverpool (16 Mayakovskogo, Metro Pl. Vosstaniya) Easily the best pub in St.
Petersburg. Just come to relax and drink a beer.
• JFC Jazz Club (33 Ul. Shpalernaya, Metro Chernyshevskaya) The best jazz in
Russia and an excellent lounge scene to go with it.
• Marstall (5 Nab. kan. Griboedova, Metro Nevsky) St. Petersburg’s current
reigning champion in the nightlife scene. The party doesn’t really get going until
3am and it rages on into the wee hours of the morning. Cover can be steep.
Expect to pay at least $10.
THE ESCAPE
No trip to St. Petersburg would be complete without a visit to Peterhof. (Take the
train from Baltiyskiy train station at Baltiyskaya Metro. From there, take almost any
bus to Peterhof. Look for signs in the bus window. On the way back, take bus
number 103 to the metro) Built by the Peters and expanded by Catherine as Russia’
s very own Versailles, the scale, scope and majesty of this inspired Summer Palace
make it a must-see. The palace is split into upper and lower gardens. While the
upper gardens are free to wander and beautiful, the lower gardens are home to
nearly 100 gold fountains shooting brilliantly into a canal that empties into the Gulf
of Finland. Don’t miss the rock fountains. Supposedly, there is just one that makes
the water shoot. Can you find it?
THE TIPS AND TRICKS
• It’s difficult to get to The Hermitage and other main sites using the metro, as
there are no stops nearby. Alternatively, catch almost any bus heading down
the visit. Cover prices vary from $5 on up to $15.
• Central Station (1/28 ulitsa Lomonosova, Metro Nevskiy Prospect) The place
to be in St. Petersburg - especially on Friday and Saturday night. Multiple dance
floors, go-go boys, 3am drag shows and the most bizarre bathroom ever seen in a
nightclub make Central Station a must on any visit to St. Petersburg. Free entry for
students all night long. Cover ranges but is usually $10.
• Still Okay
• Liverpool (16 Mayakovskogo, Metro Pl. Vosstaniya) Easily the best pub in St.
Petersburg. Just come to relax and drink a beer.
• JFC Jazz Club (33 Ul. Shpalernaya, Metro Chernyshevskaya) The best jazz in
Russia and an excellent lounge scene to go with it.
• Marstall (5 Nab. kan. Griboedova, Metro Nevsky) St. Petersburg’s current
reigning champion in the nightlife scene. The party doesn’t really get going until
3am and it rages on into the wee hours of the morning. Cover can be steep.
Expect to pay at least $10.
THE ESCAPE
No trip to St. Petersburg would be complete without a visit to Peterhof. (Take the
train from Baltiyskiy train station at Baltiyskaya Metro. From there, take almost any
bus to Peterhof. Look for signs in the bus window. On the way back, take bus
number 103 to the metro) Built by the Peters and expanded by Catherine as Russia’
s very own Versailles, the scale, scope and majesty of this inspired Summer Palace
make it a must-see. The palace is split into upper and lower gardens. While the
upper gardens are free to wander and beautiful, the lower gardens are home to
nearly 100 gold fountains shooting brilliantly into a canal that empties into the Gulf
of Finland. Don’t miss the rock fountains. Supposedly, there is just one that makes
the water shoot. Can you find it?
THE TIPS AND TRICKS
• It’s difficult to get to The Hermitage and other main sites using the metro, as
there are no stops nearby. Alternatively, catch almost any bus heading down
| . |
• Not Russian
• Khachapurnaya (154 Ligovsky pr, Metro Ligovsky) Quite possibly the most
delicious meal this writer has ever eaten. Serving traditional Georgian food,
this 5-table wonder will blow your mind with the hot, fresh, and overwhelmingly
delicious meals on offer. There is no English menu but try khachipuri, kebab &
the spicy soup. You won’t regret it. Meal for one around $15.
• Trans-Force (88 Nevsky pr, Metro Mayakovskaya) Not just dinner, but an
intergalactic voyage through time and space. Sit down behind your control
panel, order food from a digital screen and take in the 270-degree 3D virtual
space voyage. You’ll have to see it to fully understand. Meals for one around
$10.
• Cafe Zoom (22 Gorokhovaya, Metro Sennaya Ploschad) The coolest-
looking menus this writer has ever seen. This place is almost always packed, so
arrive before the dinner rush or be prepared to wait. Don’t worry, it’s worth it.
Meal for one around $10.
• Teplo (45 Bolsaya Morskaya, Metro Sennaya Ploschad, www.v-teple.ru)
From the adorable wallpaper to freshly baked breads and deserts, Teplo’s soul
food will be much appreciated on a cold Russian afternoon. Come for dinner
and stay for coffee, cocktails and dessert. You really won’t want to leave.
Dinner for one around $15.
THE NIGHTLIFE
Despite its more relaxed vibe, the nightlife in St. Petersburg is absolutely on
fire. Whether gay or straight, you’re guaranteed to be out dancing, drinking
and jiving until the sun comes up.
• Gay
• Cafe Dali (11 Spasskii per, Metro Sennaya) Drag shows on Tuesday and
Sunday night bring in the regulars, as does the all-day food and drinks on offer.
A very mixed scene.
• Cabaret (181 Obvodny canal embankment, Metro Baltiyskaya, in the
building of the House of Culture) Once the top spot in St. Petersburg, the
• Khachapurnaya (154 Ligovsky pr, Metro Ligovsky) Quite possibly the most
delicious meal this writer has ever eaten. Serving traditional Georgian food,
this 5-table wonder will blow your mind with the hot, fresh, and overwhelmingly
delicious meals on offer. There is no English menu but try khachipuri, kebab &
the spicy soup. You won’t regret it. Meal for one around $15.
• Trans-Force (88 Nevsky pr, Metro Mayakovskaya) Not just dinner, but an
intergalactic voyage through time and space. Sit down behind your control
panel, order food from a digital screen and take in the 270-degree 3D virtual
space voyage. You’ll have to see it to fully understand. Meals for one around
$10.
• Cafe Zoom (22 Gorokhovaya, Metro Sennaya Ploschad) The coolest-
looking menus this writer has ever seen. This place is almost always packed, so
arrive before the dinner rush or be prepared to wait. Don’t worry, it’s worth it.
Meal for one around $10.
• Teplo (45 Bolsaya Morskaya, Metro Sennaya Ploschad, www.v-teple.ru)
From the adorable wallpaper to freshly baked breads and deserts, Teplo’s soul
food will be much appreciated on a cold Russian afternoon. Come for dinner
and stay for coffee, cocktails and dessert. You really won’t want to leave.
Dinner for one around $15.
THE NIGHTLIFE
Despite its more relaxed vibe, the nightlife in St. Petersburg is absolutely on
fire. Whether gay or straight, you’re guaranteed to be out dancing, drinking
and jiving until the sun comes up.
• Gay
• Cafe Dali (11 Spasskii per, Metro Sennaya) Drag shows on Tuesday and
Sunday night bring in the regulars, as does the all-day food and drinks on offer.
A very mixed scene.
• Cabaret (181 Obvodny canal embankment, Metro Baltiyskaya, in the
building of the House of Culture) Once the top spot in St. Petersburg, the
| . |
Nevskiy Prospect and hop off near the river.
• Lines at the Hermitage can often be hours long. Arrive before opening to
ensure that you have a full day to explore. Also, note that a ticket is good only
once. You cannot come in and out!
• There is a hydrofoil that leaves from near The Hermitage to Peterhof in high
season. While prices are steep compared to the train, it’s a great way to see the
incredible buildings that line the waterfront.
For more information on gay friendly destinations throughout the world, please visit
www.gaytravel.com.
Copyright © AMBIENTE MAGAZINE. Do not reproduce without citing this source
• Lines at the Hermitage can often be hours long. Arrive before opening to
ensure that you have a full day to explore. Also, note that a ticket is good only
once. You cannot come in and out!
• There is a hydrofoil that leaves from near The Hermitage to Peterhof in high
season. While prices are steep compared to the train, it’s a great way to see the
incredible buildings that line the waterfront.
For more information on gay friendly destinations throughout the world, please visit
www.gaytravel.com.
Copyright © AMBIENTE MAGAZINE. Do not reproduce without citing this source
